Lisbon’s Convento do Carmo: A Place of Peace in the Shell Left by the Earthquake

One of our favorite Lisbon sights to visit and take visitors is the Convento do Carmo in the Chiado area of Lisbon. Begin your visit by taking in the façade from the Largo do Carmo, one of our favorite small squares in all of Lisbon. Consider a meal at one of the outdoor dining options on the northern end of the square or grab a refreshment from the kiosk directly in front of the convent in the midst of the square’s jacaranda trees. It was here, on April 25, 1974, during the “Carnation Revolution” that Marcello Caetano, the Prime Minister who succeeded Antonio Salazar, was surrendered to the National Guard and the people marking the end of the dictatorship (check out the photographs (below) in the interior entrance to the restaurant in the Lisboa Carmo hotel on the northwest corner).

The Convento do Carmo was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake which levelled much of Lisbon. But, unlike much of the rest of Lisbon, it was never rebuilt. The monastery was founded in 1389 and much of the church was constructed in the 15th century, with touches and upgrades over the years, until 1755. A visit today will help you appreciate the devastation of the earthquake as the skeletal remains of the gothic vaulted ceiling arches and shattered window frames linger standing witness to and as a reminder of what this place once was.

Inside the hollow shell of the former church, you can find exhibits of archaeological artifacts. At the rear of the church, your admission ticket will provide entry to the small archaeological museum with artifacts from across Portugal, the gothic tomb of King Ferdinand I and a couple of creepy mummies that rival the crypt keeper from the 1980s HBO show Tales From the Crypt. (Readers, bring your guests through the rooms from right to left to surprise them with a visit to the mummies as a creepy grand finale).

After visiting the convent, exit left and turn down the side alley. There are often musicians performing here, so follow the tunes. If you pass the musicians and head up the stairs you get stunning views of Lisbon without having to wait in queue and pay admission to the Santa Justa lift, which deposits its ascending riders at this overlook. From here, behold before you, views of the Tagus (Tejo) River, the Baixa district of Lisbon below, the Castle of São Jorge atop the hill above the other side of Baixa, Rossio Square and the Convento do Carmo itself. It won’t take a long time to visit, but it is definitely worth it. (The Convent is closed to visits on Sundays).