The Hidden Gem of the Algarve: Tavira

Straddling the Gilão River, Tavira’s old town with its winding lanes and alleyways, hilltop castle ruins, many churches adorned with traditional azulejos, storefronts, restaurants and bars welcomes you in with Portuguese charm.

Dating back to a Phoenician settlement of the 8th century BC and the Romans who followed, Tavira derives its name from the Moors when they ruled southern Spain and Portugal. “Tabira”, or “the hidden” is situated up the river behind a small island and was invisible from sea. Islamic influences are still visible in the azulejos which dot the village on buildings and inside churches.

Begin your visit with a stroll past the excavation of a Phoenician wall, the site of a future museum, and then stop in to visit the Islamic Museum where you can view moorish pottery including the fantastic Tavira Vase depicting animals and people along its rim including a warrior on horseback and a man and woman in a possible marriage procession.

While we visited, the temporary exhibit was a fantastic collection of photographs of Islamic artistry in the mosques, people, countryside and architecture of Iran.

After the museum, we hit the short (and inexpensive) ferry ride to the Ilha de Tavira for a stroll on its remote (and unpopulated on a late December mid-weekday) stretch of beach before turning back towards town and stopping off for lunch at one of the two open restaurants on this offseason day and catching sight of some wading flamingos on the return boat ride.

After returning to the town, we climbed to the castle and walked its walls and strolled its gardens before visiting two of its churches: the beautiful (and under restoration at the time of our visit) hilltop Igreja de Santa Maria do Castelo built where the mosque once stood and the azulejo-filled Igreja da Misericórdia for a 45-minute Fado concert.

We stayed at Colégio Charm House, a newly renovated family run hotel in an old 18th century mansion of a cook for Dom João V. Enchanting you with each room uniquely decorated (we stayed in the Marrakech Suite) and with deliciously prepared gourmet meals, we were indeed charmed by this hidden little gem in the heart of Portugal’s southern coast.