Hearing the Tales at Canterbury Cathedral

When Henry II installed his buddy Thomas Becket as Lord Chancellor (the highest clerical office in the land) at Canterbury in 1162 he didn’t expect his pal to be critical of his reign. Alas, he was. So, when Henry suggested to four knights and would-be assassins that they should go cut down Thomas “traitor to King and country” he didn’t realize this martyrdom would lead to his popularity and that masses of pilgrims, like those characters in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales, would come to Canterbury seeking enlightenment and healing following his canonization by Pope Alexander III only two years later.

Canterbury is a lovely medieval town in the heart of Kent County surrounded by miles of beautiful countryside, berry farms and grazing livestock. Sitting aside the River Stour, in addition to the Cathedral, you can shop on King Street and stroll through Westgate Gardens. I’d tried to find something to commemorate the Canterbury Tales but the website in my guidebook was no longer functional, though we did find this site afterwards, which we might have done had we more time.

The Cathedral in and of itself took us nearly two hours to tour, which we were told it might when they handed us the audio guides and I thought, “surely not”, but she was right, and we took our time. You enter the spectacular nave, visit the cloister, learn about St. Thomas’ martyrdom, visit the crypt then the quire (choir) and Trinity Chapel where you can view the miracle windows (stained glass windows depicting the miracles at the site of St. Thomas’ assassination and tomb), the eternal flame which has replaced Thomas’ tomb when Henry VIII had it removed (only room in this kingdom for one hero), the tomb of Henry II, who came here after Thomas was sainted to beg forgiveness and be flogged for his misdeeds, and the tomb of Edward, the Black Prince, a successful English commander in the 100 Years War along with his helmet, shield, gauntlets (and dog at his feet).

The audio guide is worthwhile and especially so once you figure out how to use the “where to next” feature which shows you how to go from point to point. Find it early-on and maybe it’ll take you less time than 90 minutes.

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